Kay Frances Designs

Kay Frances, Master Designer, and Herkermer Rodriguez

Jewelry that looks just like you imagined

Kay Frances is a master jewelry designer and a native New Mexican. Her studio works by appointment, and it's built around conversation instead of inventory. She even stopped keeping a showcase full of pieces, because she'd rather spend her energy on what customers truly want than on stock that sits around.

That focus shows in how she describes her work. It's about the customer, and she wants them to be happy.

Bespoke Rings Carved in Wax by Hand

A lot of people arrive at Kay's shop without a clear picture of what they want, and that's completely fine. Kay listens, asks questions, and can usually sense the direction within a few minutes. From there she sketches several drawings, then hand-carves a wax model of the piece so you can see it before anything is cast in metal.

You're always encouraged to be critical. If something feels off, she'll reshape it, and remaking it doesn't cost you extra. Once the design's right, a team of experts casts the piece, sets the stones, and finishes it with a polish. She specializes in white and yellow gold and platinum, and works with diamonds, lab grown diamonds, turquoise, and a wide range of precious and semi precious stones.

Because every piece is truly bespoke, you can expect it to take time. Kay's upfront about that, and a detailed piece can take several months. As she puts it, "I'd rather tell people it's going to take a little bit of time, but you'll get exactly what you want."

A Master Model Maker With Deep Albuquerque Roots

Kay studied art and music at the University of New Mexico and has spent her career carving wax and designing jewelry as wearable art. Before she owned a shop, she built a reputation as a master model maker, carving for jewelers all over Albuquerque and for national and international companies. She did much of that work from home, often late at night, so she could be there for her young children.

That commitment to family shaped her career in a big way. At one point the Hemingway Foundation offered her a contract that would have taken her through archives around the world and promoted her as a designer through Tiffany's in New York and London. She turned it down to stay with her kids, and she says she's glad she did.

In 2000 she took over the historic Romero Jewelers from its founder, Charlie Romero, after years of helping out in the store. That's why her work is described as designed at Romero Jewelers, honoring both the Romero name and her own. 

Notable Commissions From Hall of Honor Rings to Winged Victory

Kay's portfolio reaches well beyond the shop. She recreated the Winged Victory statue for the Arizona state capitol, designed the Hall of Honor rings and All American rings presented to UNM athletes, and created pieces for major companies over the years. She's also carved a dragon design in wax for author George R. R. Martin, a longtime friend of her family, and he's been photographed wearing one of her pins.

Those same hands go into everyday commissions too, like matching a client's tattoo of two spirit animals in a ring, or turning a couple's ideas into a pair of turquoise wedding bands.

Meet Jewelry Artist Herkermer Rodriguez

Kay isn't working alone. After joining Kay Frances Designs as a trainee, Herkermer caught the bug for expressing love through jewelry as art, and he's since developed real skill as a carver. Learning to carve small pieces to scale gave him the confidence to approach jewelry as sculpture, and he enjoys the challenge of both traditional gold and turquoise work and newer, modern designs. He credits Kay's generosity and warmth for helping his talent grow, and it's part of why the studio feels like a place where people come before profit.

Heirloom Redesign and Jewelry Repair in Albuquerque

If there's a drawer of old jewelry at home, Kay can often turn it into something you'll actually wear. Diamonds, gold chains, and family rings can be repurposed into a brand new piece that keeps the story of where the materials came from. She also adds to existing work, like setting a larger diamond or extra turquoise into a ring she made years ago.

Repairs are part of the service too. That includes resizing, retipping, stone tightening and replacement, new shanks, turquoise, opal, and onyx inlay replacement, chain and bracelet repair, pearl restringing, and cleaning. She also offers insurance appraisals and her professional opinion, by appointment.

Handmade Collections With a New Mexico Flavor

Not every piece starts from a blank page. Kay Frances Designs offers ready to wear collections you can browse online and in person. Joie De Vivre is the premium line, NM Flavor brings a New Mexican twist, Muse ranges from pendants to bolo ties, and the Vault features rare, carefully chosen stones. Each one carries the same handmade attention as the custom work.

Built to Last, With Encouragement and No Pressure

One thing that sets Kay apart is how she builds. After seeing plenty of worn-out repairs from other designers or shops, she decided to make her rings sturdy instead of paper thin, so they hold up for years. She also doesn't believe in pushing customers toward something they didn't ask for. In her words, "I don't want to upsell anybody. If they want to go up, I'll help them do that. But I don't push on people."

That warmth runs through everything she does. "I think that positive reinforcement helps people better than criticizing them," she says. "Because everybody has special gifts." It's a big reason people return for engagements, anniversaries, and the milestones in between.

Schedule a Personal Showing

If you're dreaming up a ring, hoping to give an old family piece new life, or just need a trusted jeweler's opinion, Kay Frances Designs is ready to help. Call or text 505.293.6901 to set up your appointment, or browse the gallery at kayfrancesdesigns.com to see what's possible.